Even after we've all been through every crooked lane and every hidden eatery, it'll all boil down to the eternal question : What is it about this city? Calcutta, or finding the peculiar rounding of your mouth to form the familiar Kolkata, is a city of finding the little pleasures. A friend once told me, “No one has that specific kind of character like Calcutta, you know. The one you know you have the right words to describe, but you can never fully go on to do so”. She is like that and she is my hometown.
If one really wishes to go around Calcutta, understanding her and the people that live and breathe inside, one must leave their inhibitions, their walls and spaces in their hotel rooms. If you are a visitor and if the people around you get a whiff of that, you are in for a serious dose of unsolicited advice. So without much further ado, let's jump right into the seven must do’s while in Calcutta.
Hop on a heritage tram from Esplanade and traverse through the thick nostalgia-filled lanes of Dalhousie and Chandni Chowk. It happens to be one of the oldest modes of transport and Calcutta can still boast the fact that it is the only city that has trams running through all the iconic lanes, at all significant hours, till date. The lazy ride (you can also opt for the newer, air-conditioned ones) will show you the city under a slow filter (if you may) and force you to look at life in its utmost rawness.
Make a stop at College Street to find yourself thrown into any book lover’s paradise. From the rarest to the newest additions, have no doubt that in College Street any bookseller, at any given shop could tell you of books and authors you've never even heard of. Stuff your bag with books and stop for a cup of cold coffee or Fish Kabiraji at the historic Indian Coffee House. If you're not up for either, find your way to Paramount and fill your tummy with glasses of delicious sherbet.
Then bargain to your heart's content at New Market! From cooking chocolate to silver jewelry, from birthday party decorations to the lace you liked on some magazine cover, it's all in here. While you're around, you will also find the best Rum Balls and Brownies here at the iconic bakery, Nahoum’s. If you're not too inclined to be on the sweet tooth train, there are Fish Chops for you. Quite simply, if there's something that you've looked for and not found here, then you might as well stop searching because said object does not exist!
Take in the exquisite beauty of the St. Paul’s Cathedral and walk along the leafy, tiled path outside, leading to The Academy of Fine Arts and Nandan, the so-called intellectual hubs of Calcutta. Whilst sipping on piping hot tea and munching on butterfly biscuits from one of the many tea stalls, engage in or listen to groups of people discussing everything from politics to poetry. It is peculiarly striking to see how these groups comprise of both men and women of no particular age group, wrapped up only in the interest of having a healthy conversation.
At dusk, take some time out and visit the Prinsep Ghat or any other Ghat for that matter and just follow the sun on its way to the horizon. Watch it shading the sky through the bars of the Howrah bridge or the stillness of the Ganges. Take a photograph or jump on a boat if you're up for it!
If New Market didn't quench your thirst, find the best prices for junk jewelry in Gariahat. Look over the heads of women screaming their prices and squealing when they met their own match. Satisfy your needs and maybe then stop for a bit at the delectable new cafes around. Wise Owl Café and Mrs. Magpie should be just fine for your evening munchies. In case you're in the mood for something different, enter the Canteen@Byloom that will hopefully satiate your appetite for unique sarees and mutton chops or fish fries at the same time!
End your day with a visit to the Ramakrishna Mission at Golpark. Breathe out the day’s stress and fatigue, and take in only the happy, and the positive episodes of your travel. Sit on the cool marble floor and look into the garden around you. You are bound to feel a togetherness and contentment, touching and soothing you from inside. In the hustle of Gariahat, it is extraordinary how this place can still hold so much calm.
The above is not a general touristy list, something that most would be looking for. ‘Where are the hotspots? Where is the glamour?’, you ask. But Calcutta is not in the bigger picture. She's not confined to the majestic structure of the Victoria Memorial or the thickly canopied streets of Southern Avenue. Find the little things, the people, the language; string them together and maybe someday, you'll know a little about who she is.
1 Opinion
Share
